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The Historical Buildings of Stoke Poges

Historical Buildings


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The Manor House
 
The history of the Manor House estates can be traced back to the Domesday Book and earlier.

1066 - 1331 Prior to 1066 the property was owned by SIRET a vassal or servant of King Harold. There is a reference to the Manor of Stoke in the Domesday Book survey of 1086 when it was held by William Fitz Ansculf direct from King William 1, after the King s Victory at Hastings in 1066. The family which held Stoke for nearly 300 years, changed their name to de Stoke and by 1291 Amicia de Stoke married Robert Poges from Normandy, giving rise to the present name of STOKE POGES The importance of the house and property rose in importance with subsequent owners.

1331- 1441 Sir John de Moleyns who married Egidia de Poges in 1325 rose to great eminence as Treasurer to Edward III. He obtained royal licence to crenellate and otherwise fortify the Manor House. His grandson u)as raised to the peerage and married into the family of Lord Hungerford. .

1441 - 1485 The Hungerford family had a chequered history with two generations being beheaded for fighting on the wrong side during the wars of the Roses and the land was forfeit.

1485- 1581 Marriage brought the returned lands to the Hastings family who became Earls of Huntingdon. They built the present Stoke Park Manor House in 18.55. When they fell on hard times and sold the House they ended over 500 years of ownership by family descendants.

Ownership can be traced to the present day and amongst following owners and occupiers were.:-

1581 - 1603 Elizabeth I who owned and visited the house. During this time she let it to Sir Christopher Hat ton 1581 - 1591 and Sir Edward Coke 1598- 1603 Lord Chief Justice. During this time, King Charles I was imprisoned here before his trial.

King William III of Orange was refused entry.

Sir Edward Landseer the artist had his studio here where he is reputed to have painted Monarch of the Glen and designed the lions for the foot of Nelson's Column.

1760- 1848 The Penns of Pennsylvania ~ When John Penn, grandson of William Penn the founder of Pennsylvania returned after 28 years in Pennsylvania he found the Manor House too dilapidated to repair and demolished three quarters of it leaving what you see today. The grounds were laid out by Capability Brown.

1970- The House is currently owned by SOUTH BUCKINGHAMSHIRE DISTRICT COUNCIL and held on a long lease by Crane Davies Management Consultants.






Public Houses
 
THE RED LION at Stoke Green is reputed to have been an inn or public drinking house for over 400 years. The Pub and land were formerly part of the estate belonging to the HOWARD-VYSEfamily of Stoke Place Henry Vallis was recorded as the licensee in 1891 and his family, who had been tenants since then, purchased the premises in 1964 In 1955 the property was scheduled as a building of special architectural interest The present Pub sign showing a red faced lion with a bird on its head caused some local controversy when itfirst appeared, as being out of place for such a magnificent and well liked local building and pub.

THE DOG & POT- Rogers Lane The original Public House is known to have existed before 1758, at which time it was called the DOG'S HEAD AND POTTAGE POT. It served the residents of West End where there was a thriving community around the north end of Rogers Lane, then called Kiln Lane due to the brick-making near by. As well as the brick makers, it also served travellers to and from Farnham Common and Hedgerly It was moved to it's present location in 1898 when the road was diverted and the old Dog and Pot apart from the stables was demolished Close by, the house now known as Winterclyde was once a pub called the ODDFELLOWS ARMS.

SIX BELLS - Gerrards Cross Road The original Five Bells was at the bottom of the hill in Sefton Park, opposite the Village Pond in Bells Hill Recreation Ground It moved to the top of the hill in 1822. When a sixth bell was added to the Church peal a new public house called the SIX BELLS was built half way up the hill and the Five Bells was renamed the SEFTON ARMS. This was demolished in 1967 when the area was redeveloped.

THE PLOUGH - Wexham Street The earliest mention of 'The Plough' is in 1771 when it was known as 'The Plow Victualling House' In 1824 a sixth bell was added to the St Giles Church peal. It was brought to the Plough for parishioners to see it before it was taken to the church tower. Three sacks of wheat were thrown down on the floor in triangular fashion in the corner of the bar and the bell crown downwards was fixed between the sacks and filled to the rim with beer.





Stoke Park
 
Stoke Park was created in 1331 when Sir John de Molyns received a royal licence to enclose three woods . For it's early history, see the Calendar page for January where the history of the Manor House is detailed.

When John PENN, son of Thomas Penn returned after 28 years in America, he found the MANOR HOUSE in a very bad state of repair. He therefore set about building the present mansion, shown in the picture over, between 1792 and 1808. He used much of the compensation he received from the new Commonwealth for the loss of his family's lands in Pennsylvania, following the American Revolution in 1776, to pay for it.

JAMES WYATT who was architect to George III, designed the Mansion. He also worked on the designs for the monuments, that can be seen in the park in honour of Thomas Gray and Sir Edward Coke, Lord Chief Justice of England.

The historic parkland was laid out by two outstanding landscape designers of the 18th century, 'Capability' Brown who designed the grounds and lake in 1750 and Humphry Repton who improved the landscape and built the Repton bridge

One of the later owners of Stoke Park was Edward Coleman ( 1863 to 1885 ). Red deer had existed in the Park since Norman times but they were at their best under Coleman, who improved the herd Sir Edward Landseer was a regular visitor to the Park and used the deer as models for his paintings.

Wilberforce Bryant, son of William Bryant, the founder of Bryant and May, bought the estate in 1887 Bryant died in 1906 and in 1908 the Park was acquired by 'Pa' Lane Jackson Uounder of the Corinthian Football Club )

He leased the mansion and half the land to the Stoke Poges Golf Club. The other half was sold for development and so the deer departed after hundreds of years, to other parks and to the Scottish Highlands.

In 1928 the mansion and golf course came into the ownership of Sir Noel Mobbs, the founder of Slough Trading Estate. He also subsequently acquired the old Manor House

In 1958 the Eton Rural District Council became the owner and it's successor the South Bucks District Council granted a 250 year lease to IHG Ltd who sub-leased it to Stoke Park Club.

Working with English Heritage and the National T rust, Stoke Park Club have invested an enormous amount of time and money in restoring the Mansion, the 'Capability' Brown lakes and the Humphry Repton landscape In addition they have restored the famous 18 hole golf course and laid out a further 9 holes as shown in an early aerial photograph.

NOTE. A new Heritage Walkfootpath is planned to open in Spring 2000. It will afford superb views of the Stoke Park Mansion, the Manor House and other parts of the original estate.

For more information on Stoke Park see the history of Stoke Poges, currently being prepared for publication by the Parish Council and written by Lionel Rigby.





Stoke Place
 
In 1690 Patrick Lamb purchased the land of what is now the Stoke Place Estate and built the central three-storey section of the William and Mary house. The grounds were later landscaped by Capability Brown. In 1764 Field Marshal Sir George Howard bought the estate and it became the family home for the next 200 years. The family name became Howard -Vyse when his daughter married General Richard Vyse.

Grays Park road (B4 16) originally continued directly south, from where the current mini-roundabout is, passing close to the house. This did not please Howard Vyse so that in 1820 he had the road diverted further west, creating the awkward bends that exist today. He then had the high brick wall built that is still a feature of that corner.

The family had a strong sense of local responsibility, helping to save the Common and running the only Charity school in the whole area.

The property was purchased in 1963 by the South Bucks District Council on the death of Major General Sir Richard Howard- Vyse and is contained within the conservation area of Stoke Green. It now operates as a Club and Conference Centre, under lease from the South Bucks District Council, offering meeting and eating facilities in beautiful surroundings.



 



The Clock House / Uplands
 
The original almshouse, founded by Lord Edward Hastings in 1557, was built near St. Giles Church. A year later the Hastings Chapel was built on the outside of the Church in the angele of the Chancel and the south side as the oratory where the inmates of the almshouse could say prayers for their founder. The original almshouse was demolished and re-built in about 1765 on its present site in Park Road. The photograph shows it as it is today, a private residence called 'The Clock House'.

In the almshouse four poor men and two poor women from the parish were housed and clothed. The men could be 'sole or married' but the women were to be 'sole and unmarried'. The inmates were known as the brethren and sisters.

The building remained in use until 1947 when it was sold because it was in a bad state of repair. Unfortunately no replacement was built.

The sculptured arms of Lord Hastings, a sleeve or 'manche' upon a shield, surmounted bya helmet, and surrounded with the ribbon and motto of the Garter, can be seen over the entrance door to the Hastings Chapel at St. Giles' Church.

Uplands
Uplands was built in 1772 by James Squib who ageed to carry on "a manufactury" where the poor were to be instructed in spinning and weaving. In 1788 the Overseers of the Poor leased the house at a rent of s ad per year for use as a workhouse. It continued as such until 1835 when parishes ceased to provide their own poorhouses and central workhouses were built covering much larger areas. The Union Workhouse was built in Slough and it catered for the poor from all the surrounding parishes. Today we know it as Upton Hospital.

Most of the documents and Parish records of Stoke Poges, including a number relating to the workhouse and the poor and Hastings Trust, are lodged in the County Record Office in Aylesbury.







Village Schools
 
The first reference to education in the Parish appeared in 1716, when Mary Salter of West End House left in her will for teaching poor children of the parish to read, write and cast accounts. Several further bequests follow and the first school was built in 1751. By 1800 it had been replaced by a school built in Rogers Lane for a cost of . It is still standing but is now divided into three houses, the front one being called "Tuppenny School House" after the cost per week of attending the school.

The "First School" (main Picture) was built in 1876 and is still in use today by children aged from four or five years old. Due to the large increase in population, it was necessary to build yet another school in 1968. The new "Middle School" was placed next door to the old Tuppenny School House in Rogers Lane. The First and Middle Schools were combined under one Head Teacher in 1996.

For a more detailed account see the history of Stoke Poges, currently being prepared for publication by the Parish Council and written by Lionel Rigby







Sefton Park
 
In the 18th Century this was known as Stoke Farm but was purchased by the 2nd Earl of Sefton as his country seat. On his father's death, his eldest son returned to the family seat at Croxteth Hall in Liverpool, leaving the other members of the family at Sefton Park. The census of 1851 shows three of his daughters living in the house with a household of 31 servants.

In 1905 the 4th Lord Decies lived here followed by his brother the 5th Baron who completely rebuilt the South Wing as shown in the Photograph.

Diamond merchant Sir Bernard Oppenheimer became the estate's new owner in 1917 but after his death it was sold five years later to Sir Walter de Freece, husband of the former music hall star, Vesta Tilley. She lived there until 1928.

During the Second World War the house was requisitioned by the War Office and occupied by Officers on training courses.

In 1948 the estate was sold at public auction to Glaxo who bought the house and 28 acres of the grounds. Glaxo developed antibiotics, Vitamin B 12 and enzymes here. It was also the production centre for about 80% of the vaccines used during the height of the Polio Vaccination campaign of the 1950'S and 60'S.

GEC occupied the property from 1982 until 1989 when there was an extensive redevelopment of the site and Hitachi Data Systems took up residence in 1992 The Grade Two Listed Building is currently their Executive Briefing Centre, whilst two new modern buildings are their European and UK headquarters.







St Giles Church
 
St. Giles, the Parish Church of Stoke Poges, dates from Saxon times with remains still existing in part of the Chancel Wall and windows There are parts still surviving from three later periods, Norman ( 1086 ); the pillars, part of the Chancel and part of the Tower, Early Gothic ( 12 20 ); the nave reconstructed on the Norman pillars and Tudor ( 15 58 ); the Hastings Chapel, built in red-brick.

The Church and Churchyard were formerly enclosed within the grounds of Stoke Park, 200 yards away from the old Manor House, hence their remoteness from the village.

Many notable people who occupied the Stoke Park Mansion supported the Church. The Chancel contains the tomb of Sir John de Molyns, Marshal of the King's Falcons and Supervisor of the King's Castles. Sir John founded the Chantry in 1338 and it contains a Piscina with two basins, a rare feature.

Originally the bells were rung from the floor of the tower. Mr. John Penn made this into a Manor House pew in 1800 and constructed a ringing chamber immediately above it. Since 192 4 the bells have been rung from a higher storey in the tower, accessed from an external staircase.

The Hastings Chapel was built in red brick with stone mullioned windows in 155 8. Lord Hastings of Loughborough, son of the first Earl ~ of Huntingdon, founded a Hospital, or Almshouse in 1557 and built the Chapel to serve. ~ as its oratory, also as a burial-place for himself and other members of the Hastings family.

There are some interesting windows. One known as the 'Bicycle Window' is made up of fragments of glass, one Piece dated 1643, as a memorial to those who fell in the Second World War. It is not possible to deduce the original complete design. Another pair of windows commemorates the death of a small child belonging to the Howard- Vyse family. They show the child leaving its earthly mother and being accepted by its heavenly mother.

The tomb of Thomas Gray is immediately below the east window of the Hastings Chapel. A tablet on the wall also records that his mother Dorothy Gray and her sister Mary Antrobus are buried in the vault below. Gray died at Pembroke Hall, Cambridge and requested to be buried next to his mother.

For a more detailed account see the guide "Stoke Poges Parish Church" on sale in the church kiosk or in the church.







Stoke Court
 
The history of Stoke Court has been traced back to 1455 and there was occupation at the site long before that During its life it has grown from a simple cottage to the magnificent mansion of today.

1455- 1617 Richard Bulstrode acquired the property by his marriage to Alice Knyfft

1617-1653 William Groome lived in the cottage until 1641 when George Downes, a Clothworker and Merchant whose family had been granted their own Coat of Arms in the 16th Century, purchased the Estate for 00 He joined in village life, acting as an unpaid Constable and checking the accounts of the Overseer of the Poor.

1653-1660 Raymond Graham owned the property, then leased to his brother-in-law Colonel William Legg. Their wives were daughters of Sir William Washington, the great-great-great Uncle of George Washington, first President of the United States.

1660-1828 The Salter family from Shropshire owned the property, known as West End House for around 170 years.

1739 Jonathan and Anna Rogers (Uncle and Aunt of Thomas Gray) became leaseholders of WEST END and when Anne was widowed, her two sisters Mary and Dorothy joined her thert THOMAS GRAY was a frequent visitor to West End, spending holidays with his mother Dorothy and his Aunts Whilst there he wrote his famous ELEGY WRITTEN IN A COUNTRY CHURCH YARD and ODE ON A DISTANT PROSPECT OF ETON After the death f his mother and aunts, Thomas Gray gave up the lease in 1758.

1828-1844. Henry Wilmer owned West End Estate, becoming President of the Royal College of Surgeons.

1844-1851. THE PENN FAMILY Granville John Penn ( son of Granville Penn, grandson of the founder of Pennsylvania) could not afford the upkeep of both the Manor House and West End, so in 1845 he sold the Manor, enlarged West End and changed its name to Stoke Court During this period he sold many of the treasures, including a painting 'Penns treaty with the Indians'.

1851-1872 The Darby Family resided The Darbys of Colebrookdale invented a method of smelting iron using coke in place of charcoal and in 1779 constructed the Iron Bridge.

1872-1927 The property passed to the Allhusen Family ~ Christian Allhusen was a Danish chemical manufacturer Augustus Henry Eden inherited his grandfathers estate in 1890 and became a Member of Parliament from 1897-1906. His wife Dorothy and Clementine Churchill were cousins so that there were many glittering social events at the house.

1927-present The house was auctioned and became a private house, Country Club and TV warehouse In 1958 it had fallen into disrepair and was to be demolished when Miles Laboratories took it over and restored it The building was severely damaged by fire in January 1979 and was again carefully restored and is now the UK Conference Centre of the Bayer Group ( who also owned the photographic film company, Agfa )

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